L'escalade au Québec

Et oui ce site web existe depuis maintenant 3 mois! Plus de 1000 visiteur et 2000 pages ont été visionnées jusqu'à maintenant! Je tient à m'excuser si les nouvelles n'ont pas été aussi fréquente dans les dernières semaines, c'est que j'ai beaucoup de travail! Je suis présentement à la recherche de (des) personnes qui voudraient écrire des petits billets pour nous présenter sois des vidéos, des articles, des images concernant le monde de l'escalade! Si vous êtes intéressé n'hésitez pas à me contacter via E-Mail! samoul@gmail.com

Séb!

Voici un autre vidéo! Malheureusement je ne connais pas le grimpeur mais le vidéo à été trouné dans les Rocky Mountain!

European Human Being

Voici un vidéo de Daniel Woods qui s'arrache les doits sur un superbe problème nommé The Unmentionable! À ne pas manquer...

Daniel Woods: The Unmentionable

Son site web

Voici deux nouveau vidéo dont je ne connais pas les auteurs et les lieux de tounage. Bon visionnement quand même!

Vidéo 1, Vidéo 2

The Butterfly Jam est une technique plutôt original de coincement de main! Je vous laisse lire l'article et regarder les photos!

The Butterfly Jam

When cracks get too wide to fist jam, you need to start getting creative with your jams - this technique involves placing two hand-jams opposite each other so that the combined width is enough to get a secure jam. The jams are placed back-to-back (not palm to palm!) and you will find that you will naturally seat your hands so that your arms are at an angle of about forty-five degrees to each other. Any scoops in the rock will improve the quality of the jam, and it is well worth hunting out any little edges for your fingers.

As the photos above and below illustrate, butterfly jams don't need perfect cracks. The feature being jammed here (found on Burbage north) is a corner, even though it is only slightly less that ninety degrees, it provides a butterfly jam good enough to do a pull-up from.

The biggest problem with a Butterfly Jam is not how to place them, but how to make them aid upward progress! The most common question that climbers ask once they are securely jammed in is 'what do I do now?' Clearly if you take one hand away from a Butterfly Jam you don't have a jam any more, and if that was the only thing holding you on the rock, you'll be free-falling. The trick is to make sure your feet are well placed - this is the key to all jamming, but especially obvious in this instance. An obvious foot combination would be a deep waist level heel-toe in the crack with one foot, combined with another heel toe directly beneath.

With your feet well-placed, you can shuffle your hands up the crack. It is also possible to lean to one side of the crack and turn the butterfly jam into a layback, a couple of layback moves and you can replace the butterfly jam and give yourself a secure place to bring your feet up.

Source: http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=310

Voici un superbe vidéo de Jeff Beaulieu qui travaillait la Zébrée. Ce vidéo à été tourné l'année dernière lorsque cette craque surplombante 5.14 n'avait encore jamais été grimpé. Il y a quelques jours, durant sa dernière journée à Val David Jeff a finalement réussit la première ascension de cette superbe voie! Félicitation encore à ce Québécois qui ne manque pas à s'impliquer dans l'escalade local.

DrTopo: La Zébrée par Jean-Francois Beaulieu (Disponible pour un temps limité!)

Voici un vidéo de bloc ou vous pourrez voir Kevin Schwartz à l'action sur différent problème allant jusqu'à V8. Il se peut que le vidéo soit long à télécharger vu sa grosseur.

Kevin Schwartz

Un concours de vitesse assez hors du commun a eu lieu au Colorado dernièrement. 16 équipes devaient s'affronter dans une voie de 9 pitchs. L’équipe la plus rapide gagnait 1,000$!

9-Pitch Speed Climbing

A nine-pitch, fully bolted, 5.10a climb in Colorado’s Royal Gorge was the scene of a high-stakes big-wall sport-climbing race in the 2004 Go Fast Games. Brian Gallant and Mike Johnson of Colorado Springs were the quickest of 16 teams to race up the 1,000-foot granitic wall, taking a $1,000 first prize with their 1 hour 12 minute climb. One minute behind were Wayne Crill and Clayton Reagan of Fort Collins, followed by Fred Knapp and Alan Lester of Boulder. Dean Potter and Adam Stack raced up the wall in just 42 minutes but were disqualified for breaking the competition’s rule against simulclimbing.

Long-time Colorado climber Hank Caylor organized the competition at the Go Fast Games and bolted the Clean Dan Memorial Route (named for the late Dan Grandusky of Boulder) for last year's first Go Fast Games. The Games also featured 140 B.A.S.E. jumpers leaping from the 1,053-foot-high Royal Gorge bridge and Dean Potter “highlining” on a slackline 1,000 feet above the Arkansas River. Both B.A.S.E. jumping and climbing are normally illegal in Royal Gorge, but are available to invitees during the Go Fast Games.

Source: http://climbing.com/news/gofastgames04/

Voici un petit article qui traite de la première ascension de la face nord de Saf Minal (22,674 Pieds) dans les Garhwal Himalaya de l'Inde.

New Route on Indian Giant

The Anglo-American team of Ian Parnell and John Varco made the first ascent of the Northwest Face of 22,674-foot Saf Minal in the Garhwal Himalaya of India. First climbed via its snowy southern slopes in 1975, Saf Minal apparently had never been climbed from the north. The two summited on October 5 after several days of climbing, plus 36 hours trapped in a tent during a storm.

Unlike neighboring Kalanka and Changabang, with their 5,500-foot, near-vertical faces of perfect granite, Saf Minal features nearly 6,500 feet of black shale and loose mixed climbing. Climbing in pure alpine style, with no reconnaisance, fixed ropes, or camps, Parnell and Varco started up a distinctive ridge that led to sustained mixed climbing on poor rock and snow-covered slabs, and finally a system of ice couloirs in the upper part of the face. After three days of reasonable weather, a storm trapped the pair in a partially erected tent. After 36 hours of torment, they opted to climb in the continuing storm and reached the west ridge in the dark, only about 700 feet below the summit. To their surprise, the following morning brought perfect weather for the successful summit push.

The poor rock and traversing nature of the line took its toll during the descent. After two days of rappelling and tricky downclimbing, the two staggered into basecamp with a cut rope, no food, and with only one nut and a couple of cams remaining from their rack. Parnell, who lost over 25 pounds on the ascent, said, "This climb was probably the most expensive but rewarding diet plan we've ever followed."

Source: http://climbing.com/news/sagminal/

Nous le savons tous, le temps froid arrive bientôt c'est inévitable! Si vous êtes de ceux qui ne peuvent se passer de grimper sur la roche et vous aimeriez vraiment retarder le plus possible la saison de Gym, vous devez vous y faire, grimper à 0 degré peut nécessiter des précautions. Je vous présente donc un article qui vous donnera quelques trucs pour vous garder au chaud et profiter au maximum de l'automne!

Climbing In The Cold (Résumé)

Climbing In The Cold (Article complet)