Coincement de main papillon

The Butterfly Jam est une technique plutôt original de coincement de main! Je vous laisse lire l'article et regarder les photos!

The Butterfly Jam

When cracks get too wide to fist jam, you need to start getting creative with your jams - this technique involves placing two hand-jams opposite each other so that the combined width is enough to get a secure jam. The jams are placed back-to-back (not palm to palm!) and you will find that you will naturally seat your hands so that your arms are at an angle of about forty-five degrees to each other. Any scoops in the rock will improve the quality of the jam, and it is well worth hunting out any little edges for your fingers.

As the photos above and below illustrate, butterfly jams don't need perfect cracks. The feature being jammed here (found on Burbage north) is a corner, even though it is only slightly less that ninety degrees, it provides a butterfly jam good enough to do a pull-up from.

The biggest problem with a Butterfly Jam is not how to place them, but how to make them aid upward progress! The most common question that climbers ask once they are securely jammed in is 'what do I do now?' Clearly if you take one hand away from a Butterfly Jam you don't have a jam any more, and if that was the only thing holding you on the rock, you'll be free-falling. The trick is to make sure your feet are well placed - this is the key to all jamming, but especially obvious in this instance. An obvious foot combination would be a deep waist level heel-toe in the crack with one foot, combined with another heel toe directly beneath.

With your feet well-placed, you can shuffle your hands up the crack. It is also possible to lean to one side of the crack and turn the butterfly jam into a layback, a couple of layback moves and you can replace the butterfly jam and give yourself a secure place to bring your feet up.

Source: http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=310